Eater Atlanta’s editor and contributors spend every week dining at multiple restaurants and pop-ups in search of the next great bite or cocktail. Some meals and drinks are definitely better than others and deserve a shoutout. Below are the best dishes Eater’s editor ate in February.
I don’t see a lot of exploration with shrimp and grits, most likely because that combination is tried-and-true. But the shrimp and grits (pictured above) at My Three Sons’ pop-up on February 21 surprised and delighted me. The shrimp was so fresh I could feel its snap in my teeth, and the tomato sauce didn’t overwhelm, but my favorite element was mixed into the grits themselves — a much-welcome dose of texture, thanks to boiled corn and broccolini.
I’ve adopted a simple solution to menu overwhelm: When in doubt, get the vegetable plate. The Deer and the Dove truly excels here, making plates that feel cohesive rather than simply assembled. The potato-and-celery-root gratin has a nice degree of roughage, while the romanesco, roasted carrots, and fresh apple slices added more textural play. The farro verde really hammered the satiety home, while the sweet potato puree added a dash of contrast. The leftovers were even better the next day.
This month’s menu at Bovino After Dark is truly something special. I knew I was going to love this particular course the moment I saw it because it featured lots and lots of crab. This dish is essentially a crab custard, brimming with salinity and umami. There’s also some extra crab hidden within the custard, a lovely surprise. It’s accompanied by sweet milk…
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