Photograph by Martha Williams
Long associated with Indigenous rituals of purification, palo santo (“holy stick”) comes from Bursera graveolens, a scrubby species of tree that grows throughout Central and South America. Like frankincense and myrrh, to which it is related, it has an intoxicating aroma thought to dispel negative energy and promote well-being—which is also the promise of Palo Santo (955 West Marietta Street Northwest), a chic new Mexican restaurant near the King Plow Arts Center. Those of us who write about food often focus on seeking out informal little joints and unheralded treasures. But, since it opened in September, I’ve heard Palo Santo described frequently enough as the “sexiest scene in town” to wonder if we’re overlooking diners’ desires for another kind of restaurant: one that dazzles its audience with a big show, creating a kind of collective, near-religious culinary experience.
At first glance, the pieces seem to be in place. There’s a fervor in the mostly young people who gather here, dressed to the nines and clamoring for a spot on the rooftop, or in a brilliantly proportioned dining room—not too big, not too small—that’s lit with a flair for drama. The giant disk of hammered copper behind the bar, the undulating fixtures like hula skirts made of thin agave fibers, the cozy midcentury-modern furniture: All work their magic to humanize an otherwise industrial space. With the dancing flames of a wood-fired grill visible in the small kitchen, the stage is set for delight.
Photograph by Martha Williams
The chef is Mexico City native Santiago Gomez, who rose to prominence in Miami, where he worked at Nobu before launching his own buzzy spots. His menu at Palo Santo is attractive, and most dishes look gorgeous. My favorite by far, a mushroom rice a server described to me as “in the style of a paella,” strikes just the right…
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